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Cult camera with a reputation for sharp lens and unique rendering, made famous by fashion and portrait photographer Terry Richardson. This is a compact camera of repute and many many articles have been written about it. There are a few links at the bottom of this article if you are not familiar with it. I’d like to focus this article on the lens conversion aspects.
My particular copy belonged to my father and came with a stuck shutter. Destined for the bin I decided to see if I could salvage it. The following project documents my efforts to do so. I have a compulsion fettle so, there will be updates to this article as I go through variations.
Lens: Carl Zeiss Tessar 35mm, f/3.5 lens, 4 elements in 3 groups, T* (multicoated)
Optical system construction: Lens is encased in a mono block plastic cylinder with 3 lugs which hold the lens block in place on a focusing platform. Also attached to the focusing platform is the combination aperture and shutter mechanism.
Shutter and Aperture: Combined Shutter/Aperture mechanism, single set of blades
Common Failures:
- Shutter failure – replaceable with donor shutter cable
- Motor drive failures: motor not working (replaceable with donor motor), motor not advancing full frame (often it’s a logic board problem and non economical to repair)
Lens Removal:
This is guide on how to remove the lens out of a Yashica T4. It is NOT a repair manual. All the cameras I extract lenses from are beyond repair and my method of removing lenses is based on the easiest way of removing the lens at the expense of the donor camera.
It is fairly straightforward to remove the lens off the Yashica T4. All you have to do is remove the bezel, remove 3 screws and extract the lens. Whilst this appears to be a non destructive, the lens is mounted immediately in front of the shutter mechanism; which is a known area of weakness. Damaging the shutter mechanism is a risk of removal. The bezel itself is held on by 3 prongs on to the focusing platform. These prongs are extremely fragile and may not survive the removal process. However, this is not necessarily a bad thing as, if you intend to follow on by modding the lens, you can use the bezel as a protector and lens hood.
Step 1 – Expose the lens
Insert battery into the camera and turn it on. The lens protector should slide down and expose the lens bezel and lens. If you are unable to power on your camera, you can manually slide the lens protector downwards and out of the way. However, the lens and bezel will be recessed into the body and it may be difficult to remove the bezel. If you have any difficulties, refer to the addendum of this guide and remove the camera casing.
Step 2 – Remove bezel
Once exposed, place a small screwdriver at the 12 o’clock position of the lens and apply gradual pressure to the bezel until the retaining prong releases from it’s socket. Repeat the process at the 4 and 8 o’clock positions until you remove the bezel.
Step 3 – Remove lens
With the bezel removed, all you have to do is remove 3 screws to remove the lens itself.
The extracted lens is approximately 20mm at it’s widest (not including the lens mounting lugs) and 12 mm high. It’s Zeiss T* coated and comprises of 4 elements in 3 groups
Addendum
If you have problems extracting the lens, you may still access it by removing the camera’s outer casing.
Remove two screws on the right side of the camera as indicated.
Next, remove 2 screws from the bottom of the camera.
Finally, remove the 3 screws within the film chamber.
The Yashica T4 is weather sealed so it is not easy to pry the front and rear casing apart but it is possible.
Method of conversion:
- Simple 3d printed mount with lug for printed aperture plates
- Lens mounted behind the base of the mount
- 3D printed fixed aperture
- Mount coupled to Leica M mount close focus helicoid
Rear of mount with lens in place
Rear of mount with aperture plate in place
Front of lens with lens and bezel in place
Sample Images
Some initial photos taken with the lens, full resolution versions and more photos taken with the lens can be found in on my Flickr album
Flikr Groups:
https://www.flickr.com/search/groups/?text=yashica%20t4
Camera Review links:
http://www.35mmc.com/05/06/2013/yashica-t5-the-path-to-enlightenment-part-1/
http://blog.baquephoto.com/?p=999
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PaFXPYys-f8
https://www.lomography.com/magazine/258774-lomopedia-yashica-t4-super
Where can i download the 3D model? Could not find it in the download section!
Hi David, this is still work in progress, therefore I’ve not added it to the 3D Repository. I’ve got your email address and will send you a copy.
Whats an email address I can send to get the 3D file? I’m very interested since I have a non-functioning T4.
Hi Michael, I’ll send the file to you with instructions to your Gmail account shortly.
Can I also get the files? :3
Hi Javier, I’ll be putting the files online soon. Will let you know when I do, cheers – Ray
Hello, Can I get a copy of the 3d files. I am very excited to try this with my T4 lens.
Hi Joy,
I’m not releasing the current version of the files as they need to be improved before I am happy to let others have them. Will keep you in mind and let you know when I release them, which will be downloadable from my archives page.
Cheers
Ray
Hi Ray,
I’ve got a similar project to yours too! Been collecting point and shoot lenses from Olympus, Konica, and Nikon. I’ve bought a couple of Leica body caps too and I’m thinking of doing it the hard way (am going to hack and saw those caps to fit the donor lenses), but then I found your website! You did a great job here, it’s a more elegant and savvy way of doing it to be honest. I’d love to use the 3D model too and play around with it for a bit if you don’t mind, I’ve got a couple of ideas I’d like to discuss with you as well. Cheers mate!
Hi Calvin, great to meet you, I’d love to hear your ideas. I’ll give you a shout on Monday via my personal email so watch out for that. Cheers for now and have a great weekend!
Will it be possible for me to get a hold on the 3D model as well?
Got a dead T5, hoping I can do the same thing too š
hi! could i also get an email with the file? I have a broken T4 as well that I’m trying to use and the only camera repair place around me won’t fix it because they say it’s “not worth it” :,(
Hi Lindsay, sorry for the delay in replying. Been on vacation. Check your inbox for the requested files. Cheers!
Hi , I’m also a fan of the T4 yashica, your pics are very “T4 like” & I love it. I missed using my T4 & i want to use/convert the lens on a digital cam . Can I request for the 3d model file if possible? Thank You.
Very cool and exciting project! Could I please request an email copy of the file as well? I have a broken T4 that is in need of some attention.
Very cool and exciting project! Could I please request an email copy of the file? I have a broken T4 that is in need of some attention.
Hey Ray,
I would like to request a copy of the file!
Thanks,
Erich
Wow , thank you so much for this. Could you give me the file please since I want to get my T4 back to life. š
Hi Sascha,
Iām not releasing the current version of the files as they need to be improved before I am happy to let others have them. Will keep you in mind and let you know when I release them, which will be downloadable from my archives page.
Cheers
Ray
Hey there! Can I be notified as well when the files are ready! Also if its possible to make it in a Fuji FX mount!
Hi Sean,
I’m afraid that I do not have access to a Fuji FX mount camera. Sorry.
Ray
What about an M42 mount?
hope you’re well ray! I have a couple questions if you don’t mind answering, first is what screwdriver size/name is required for the t4? Second is, my lens is slightly (very) scratched up, if I buy a t4 with let’s say a broken flash or other problems, can I extract the clear lens from that and attach it to mine following steps 1, 2 and 3?
I’d save more money that way instead of having to buy a good condition t4, all I need is a better lens!
Thank you for reading
Hi Sabb, it’s great that you’re trying to save your T4. I wish I had been able to save mine. Anyhow, you’ll need a small flathead screwdriver size 0 to 2 will be ok. Removing the screws which hold the lens onto the focusing platform will require a size 2 to size 4 Philips/Crosshead screwdriver. Pretty regular. Let me know if you need help finding a T4/lens. I’m working with a camera repair person at the moment and can keep a lookout for T4s for you. Just let me know your budget (max you’re willing to spend) and if anyone comes in with a duff T4, I’ll ping you. Cheers – Ray
Hello Ray, Cool, It’s great to hear that I can use the T4 lens to my Sony camera.
If you do not mind, could you send me the stl file for the adapter? If not, then can you give me the adapter info (the size or distance and so on) will be also very helpful for me. thanks a lot for you tips.
Hi Jeong, I’m not releasing the current version as it’s WIP. When I do, I’ll be putting it into the downloads section. I did not measure the flange distance accurately but the distance should be around 25mm, slightly shorter than the Leica M. Good luck!
Hi there could I get the 3d files too please. I would love to experiment.
Hi Jonathan, I’m not releasing the current version as it’s WIP. When I do, I’ll be putting it into the downloads section.
Thanks for the reply, sorry to be pushy but do you have a rough timeframe?
many thanks
Hi, no I don’t. It’s not high on my list. I hate to be discouraging but, as I mentioned in my article, you would need to tinker around with the adapter to get it right so if you search for a 3d printable M mount lens cap and tinker with it, you would essentially get the same result, which is why I’m not going to spend more time on it. As I mentioned in my article, putting an aperture on the rear does not increase it’s depth of field so don’t bother. Go ahead and tinker, that’s what 3d printing is about : )
Hello
Is it possible to have a look at the WIP files version? It would be awesome!